SB9 and ADU Construction Notes: Difference between revisions
(Created page with "Working Notes: Use clear polycarb sheets on interior of glass bricks to create 3.5" air gap or about R-value 3.6 per inch plus 2 for glass brick or about r-14. Assuming a loss of efficiency that still puts us well under .3U (aprox .07 U) Create a dutch door type of in combo with a custom window for upstairs egress/large furniture entry (28x80). Custom upper window constructed with 2x4 notched toward front and back to create 3" airgap. 3 sides secured permanently fourth...") |
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Working Notes: | '''Working Notes:''' | ||
Use clear polycarb sheets on interior of glass bricks to create 3.5" air gap or about R-value 3.6 per inch plus 2 for glass brick or about r-14. Assuming a loss of efficiency that still puts us well under .3U (aprox .07 U) | Use clear polycarb sheets on interior of glass bricks to create 3.5" air gap or about R-value 3.6 per inch plus 2 for glass brick or about r-14. Assuming a loss of efficiency that still puts us well under .3U (aprox .07 U) | ||
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Create a dutch door type of in combo with a custom window for upstairs egress/large furniture entry (28x80). Custom upper window constructed with 2x4 notched toward front and back to create 3" airgap. 3 sides secured permanently fourth side screwed in place to allow removal and insertion of glass .Aprox R 12 or (U .085) | Create a dutch door type of in combo with a custom window for upstairs egress/large furniture entry (28x80). Custom upper window constructed with 2x4 notched toward front and back to create 3" airgap. 3 sides secured permanently fourth side screwed in place to allow removal and insertion of glass .Aprox R 12 or (U .085) | ||
When refinishing and whitewashing fir flooring. I first used Citrus based stripper on all paint and varnish I could on existing floor, then I rented an orbital sander using the highest grit sandpaper (20), wetting the floor well and letting it soak in. Then going over it with the sander, the sander will stop being effective after balls of varnish and paint get caught in the grit and the paper must be removed and wash out. When sandpaper was used without water, varnish balls would build up on the sandpaper grit quickly as it would melt and form unremovable balls on the sandpaper. When painting I thinned the white floor paint by with about 50% water and used a roller for a single light coat and a second handheld roller to hand rub across the paint and create a brushed look. When matching paint edges I didn't overlap the new paint with the previous edge and this create and smoother look. | |||
Blocking joists and rafters at ends: Idea- Starting with center joist/rafter use precut blocks at 14.5" nailing or screwing (3.5") them in as joist rafters are added. Staggering single blocking so both ends and bottom (with 6m" screws) can be attached. If double blocking is required a second one can be added with face nailing. | |||
'''Blocking joists and rafters at ends''': Idea- Starting with center joist/rafter use precut blocks at 14.5" nailing or screwing (3.5") them in as joist rafters are added. Staggering single blocking so both ends and bottom (with 6m" screws) can be attached. If double blocking is required a second one can be added with face nailing. | |||
'''More Blocking Base of framing:''' Best technique-use 3.5" exterior screws through stud from sides in combination with same, angled at 45 from top. Block with 2x or doubled 15 plywood (behind HDUs). From outside attach with 1.5" at sheathing edges. | |||
Latest revision as of 07:57, 15 May 2023
Working Notes:
Use clear polycarb sheets on interior of glass bricks to create 3.5" air gap or about R-value 3.6 per inch plus 2 for glass brick or about r-14. Assuming a loss of efficiency that still puts us well under .3U (aprox .07 U)
Create a dutch door type of in combo with a custom window for upstairs egress/large furniture entry (28x80). Custom upper window constructed with 2x4 notched toward front and back to create 3" airgap. 3 sides secured permanently fourth side screwed in place to allow removal and insertion of glass .Aprox R 12 or (U .085)
When refinishing and whitewashing fir flooring. I first used Citrus based stripper on all paint and varnish I could on existing floor, then I rented an orbital sander using the highest grit sandpaper (20), wetting the floor well and letting it soak in. Then going over it with the sander, the sander will stop being effective after balls of varnish and paint get caught in the grit and the paper must be removed and wash out. When sandpaper was used without water, varnish balls would build up on the sandpaper grit quickly as it would melt and form unremovable balls on the sandpaper. When painting I thinned the white floor paint by with about 50% water and used a roller for a single light coat and a second handheld roller to hand rub across the paint and create a brushed look. When matching paint edges I didn't overlap the new paint with the previous edge and this create and smoother look.
Blocking joists and rafters at ends: Idea- Starting with center joist/rafter use precut blocks at 14.5" nailing or screwing (3.5") them in as joist rafters are added. Staggering single blocking so both ends and bottom (with 6m" screws) can be attached. If double blocking is required a second one can be added with face nailing.
More Blocking Base of framing: Best technique-use 3.5" exterior screws through stud from sides in combination with same, angled at 45 from top. Block with 2x or doubled 15 plywood (behind HDUs). From outside attach with 1.5" at sheathing edges.
