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#Use 6" heavy rafter screws through header at a 45 for each rafter and 6" timber screws through header straight up into blocking. | #Use 6" heavy rafter screws through header at a 45 for each rafter and 6" timber screws through header straight up into blocking. | ||
#Make sure upper ends of rafter joists are perfectly aligned before screwing in place. The bottom ends can be cut to match sheathing. Also use only screws until everything has been completely set in place. This allows for easy removal of a joist if needed due to unseen warp or twisting. | #Make sure upper ends of rafter joists are perfectly aligned before screwing in place. The bottom ends can be cut to match sheathing. Also use only screws until everything has been completely set in place. This allows for easy removal of a joist if needed due to unseen warp or twisting. | ||
#Cut rafter ends so fascia matches with sheathing. Cut small piece of plywood to use as small straight edge screwed in to the rafter tail. Cut plywood at 3.56 to allow 90 degree rafter tails. Place sheathing at edge but far enough away to allow room for circular saw downward cut. Clamp a 2x4 at edge of sheathing for safety while leaning over and cutting with circular saw, alternatively using a ladder from inside of second level and reaching out with circular saw might be safer and easier. | #Cut rafter ends so fascia matches with sheathing. Cut small piece of plywood to use as small straight edge screwed in to the rafter tail. Cut plywood at 3.56 to allow 90 degree rafter tails. Place sheathing at edge but far enough away to allow room for circular saw downward cut. Clamp a 2x4 at edge of sheathing for safety while leaning over and cutting with circular saw, alternatively using a ladder from inside of second level and reaching out with circular saw might be safer and easier. Another approach is to pull back the sheathing from 1 to 2 feet lie flat on the roof top, screw a 2x4 along the bottom edge of the sheathing and then reach out and down to access the roof edge. | ||
#Install 2x10 fascia using heavy duty brackets screwed into bottom of rafter ends. They should leave room for a 2x10 to drop into place easily. | #Install 2x10 fascia using heavy duty brackets screwed into bottom of rafter ends. They should leave room for a 2x10 to drop into place easily. Place the 2x10 at the edge of the roof and slowly from the center lift the 2x10 on end until it drops into both brackets simultaneously. |
Revision as of 11:08, 20 April 2023
Foundation Notes-
- Rebar chairs allow bending up towards center, making rebar too close to surface at center of slab. Remedy: support downward facing rebar and leave more space at top.
- Use twisting tool for tying rebar.
- Rent bender (weekly rate) and cutter for rebar.
- Used soil cement to create sharp edges on upper interior trench.
- Covered 100 % with 15mil underlayment requires UFER to be placed outside of trench or separate driven rods.
- Make sure anchor bolts are placed properly during pour. They will need to be adjusted as pouring will move them.
- Problem: When setting anchor bolts for HDU they were set too low. The HDUs requires bolts to be projected about 4.5 inches. Width of sole plate plus another 1.5 inches for HDU mechanism and at least. 5 inches for bolt. Fix: Cut anchor bolt to lower level to allow coupler to attach extra rod to match needed height.
Framing Notes:
- Make sure walls are plumb before adding sheathing.
- Cuts at 3.56 degrees for upper walls.
- Use wall jacks to lift walls.
- When installing floor and roof diaphragms, cut ends of sheathing for exact match on 2x10s, hold in place temporarily with screws before nailing.
- Fill floor and roof diaphragms with liquid flash immediately after nailing, this will protect in case of rain.
- Use 6" heavy rafter screws through header at a 45 for each rafter and 6" timber screws through header straight up into blocking.
- Make sure upper ends of rafter joists are perfectly aligned before screwing in place. The bottom ends can be cut to match sheathing. Also use only screws until everything has been completely set in place. This allows for easy removal of a joist if needed due to unseen warp or twisting.
- Cut rafter ends so fascia matches with sheathing. Cut small piece of plywood to use as small straight edge screwed in to the rafter tail. Cut plywood at 3.56 to allow 90 degree rafter tails. Place sheathing at edge but far enough away to allow room for circular saw downward cut. Clamp a 2x4 at edge of sheathing for safety while leaning over and cutting with circular saw, alternatively using a ladder from inside of second level and reaching out with circular saw might be safer and easier. Another approach is to pull back the sheathing from 1 to 2 feet lie flat on the roof top, screw a 2x4 along the bottom edge of the sheathing and then reach out and down to access the roof edge.
- Install 2x10 fascia using heavy duty brackets screwed into bottom of rafter ends. They should leave room for a 2x10 to drop into place easily. Place the 2x10 at the edge of the roof and slowly from the center lift the 2x10 on end until it drops into both brackets simultaneously.